Whale Watching in the Canaries: Tenerife and La Gomera Year-Round

The permanent presence of cetaceans in this strait is no accident. Several ecological mechanisms combine to create exceptional conditions, and understanding them helps anticipate what you will observe.

An abrupt bathymetry right off the coast

The west coast of Tenerife is bordered by a very pronounced underwater slope. In less than 5 nautical miles from Los Gigantes, depths reach 3 000 to 3 500 metres. Species adapted to great depths, such as the sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus) or the short-finned pilot whale (Globicephala macrorhynchus), find their hunting habitat within reach of coastal boats. This configuration is rare in the Mediterranean or on French Atlantic coasts.

Stable waters between 19 °C and 25 °C

Surface temperature varies little throughout the year in this sector, between 19 °C in winter and 25 °C in summer. This thermal stability removes the need for seasonal migrations for resident species. Pilot whales and bottlenose dolphins have no reason to leave these waters, explaining their constant presence (SECAC report, 2019).

The Canary Current and upwelling

The Canary Current runs along the African coast from north to south and locally generates upwellings of cold, nutrient-rich water. These enriched waters support dense food chains: zooplankton, small pelagic fish, cephalopods. Cetaceans follow this abundance. Local operators and researchers from the CETACEOS programme regularly report prey aggregations correlated with sperm whale dive zones.

Why resident species do not migrate

The combination of deep bathymetry, stable temperate water and permanently available food resources creates an environment where migration brings no advantage. Local photo-identification studies show that some pilot whale individuals are recorded in the same area over periods of several years (SECAC data, 2019). This sedentariness makes the Canaries unique at the scale of the north-east Atlantic.

Identifying a species from a boat deck requires a few simple markers. Here are the most useful criteria for each species encountered in the strait.

Short-finned pilot whale (Globicephala macrorhynchus)

The head is rounded, with a prominent melon, no visible rostrum. The dorsal fin is broad at the base, falcate, positioned in the first third of the back. The body is dark grey to black, with a light grey saddle behind the dorsal. Groups are often compact and remain at the surface for long periods, facilitating observation. Adult size: 4 to 6 metres.

Sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus)

The blow is oblique, directed left and forward, at about 45 degrees. This is the most reliable criterion at distance. The head represents one third of the total body length. Before a deep dive, the animal raises its flukes (tail fluke) out of the water, allowing individual photo-identification. Adult males can exceed 15 metres.

Bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus)

The rostrum is short and well defined, the body medium grey with a lighter belly. Bottlenose dolphins frequently engage in bow-riding, surfing on the bow wave of boats. This active behaviour quickly distinguishes them from the slower-surfacing pilot whales.

Pantropical spotted dolphin (Stenella attenuata)

Adults show light spots on the flanks, absent in juveniles. The species is highly acrobatic: frequent jumps and aerial spins. The silhouette is slender with a long rostrum. Groups can be large, sometimes dozens of individuals.

Fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus)

The blow is tall and vertical, sometimes exceeding 6 metres. Asymmetry in lower jaw pigmentation is characteristic: white on the right, dark on the left. This is the only large cetacean with this asymmetry. The dorsal fin is small and set far back.

Bryde's whale (Balaenoptera edeni)

Smaller than the fin whale, its blow is lower. The most reliable distinguishing feature is the presence of three rostral ridges on top of the head, visible up close or in photos. Jaw pigmentation is symmetrical, unlike the fin whale.

Loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta)

The carapace is reddish-brown, the head broad and massive. At the surface it remains still or swims slowly. It is not a cetacean, but its presence in these waters is common from April to October and should be reported to monitoring programmes.

The Canaries allow whale watching year-round, but the composition of observable species varies by month. The table below gives indicative observation probabilities based on field data from local operators and the SECAC programme. No sighting is guaranteed.

●● frequent, ● possible, ○ rare or absent

Permanent residents: pilot whales and bottlenose dolphins

Short-finned pilot whales and bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus) are present every month without interruption. Operators from Los Gigantes report contact rates above 85 % on morning trips, regardless of season.

Sperm whales: winter and spring priority

Sperm whale sightings are more frequent from December to April. The deep waters of the strait provide hunting grounds especially for solitary males. Outside this period contacts remain possible but less regular.

Fin and Bryde's whales: autumn–winter

Both rorqual species are reported mainly from October to February. Bryde's whales (Balaenoptera edeni) appear more faithful to the area than fin whales (Balaenoptera physalus), which are more often in transit.

Loggerhead turtles: April to October

The loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) is visible at the surface mainly during the warmer months. It can be approached easily at the surface, but responsible operators maintain a respectful distance.

The quality of a whale-watching trip is not measured by the number of species seen. It is measured by how the operator behaves around the animals. Here are the criteria I apply to evaluate an offer, even from a distance.

Canary Islands Decreto 178/2000

The Canary Islands autonomous community adopted Decreto 178/2000, which sets a minimum distance of 60 metres between any boat and a group of cetaceans. The decree also prohibits more than three vessels from stationing simultaneously around the same group and limits presence to 30 minutes per group. Any operator failing to respect these rules faces administrative sanctions. Some operators certified HQWW (High Quality Whale Watching) voluntarily apply more conservative distances, often 100 metres or more.

HQWW charter criteria

The High Quality Whale Watching charter defines precise behavioural standards: slow lateral approach, no sudden manoeuvres, reduced engine power near animals, mandatory staff training. A certified HQWW operator displays the label clearly. If the label is not mentioned, I ask directly before booking.

Questions to ask before booking

Three simple questions allow quick filtering of offers. First: is there a biologist or naturalist guide on board, not just a sailor? Second: what is the withdrawal protocol if animals show signs of stress (change of direction, sudden dive, acceleration)? Third: what is the maximum group size of passengers? Trips with fewer than 12 people allow better space management and less noise.

Warning signs not to ignore

Certain behaviours are clear indicators of ethical shortcomings: engines kept at high power less than 60 metres from animals, offers of swimming with dolphins (prohibited by Decreto 178/2000), feeding animals, or encirclement of a group by several boats from the same company. These practices generate documented stress on resident populations (Whale and Dolphin Conservation report, 2021).

Three main ports give access to the cetacean zones of the strait. Each offers different advantages depending on visitor priorities.

Los Gigantes (Tenerife)

This is the port closest to the usual presence zones of pilot whales on Tenerife’s west coast. The journey to the first sightings is often under 20 minutes. The port is smaller than Puerto Colón, meaning fewer simultaneous boats on the sites. The Los Gigantes cliffs also provide a remarkable visual backdrop. Trips generally last 2 h to 3 h.

Puerto Colón / Costa Adeje (Tenerife)

This port has the largest number of available operators. The offer is more varied in vessel type and schedules. In return, the journey to the pilot whale zones is longer and boat concentration on the sites can be higher in peak season. Trips last 2 h 30 to 3 h 30. I recommend carefully checking HQWW certification of operators from this port, precisely because competition is strong.

San Sebastián de La Gomera

Trips from La Gomera are generally more intimate, with smaller groups. The ferry crossing from Los Cristianos takes about 50 minutes and itself offers observation opportunities. Local operators report regular contacts with pilot whales in the strait on the Gomera side. This is an interesting option for those wishing to combine observation with island exploration.

Optimal time and trip duration

Morning departures (8 h to 10 h) benefit from generally calmer seas on the leeward coast of Tenerife and favourable light for photography. Conditions often deteriorate in early afternoon with thermal breeze. A duration of 2 h 30 to 3 h is sufficient for serious observation without overloading the sites.

The advertised price does not always reflect the real quality of the trip. Here is how to read an offer beyond the fare.

Price range

Whale-watching trips in the Canaries generally range between 35 € and 75 € per adult. The lowest rates often correspond to large-capacity catamarans from Puerto Colón. The highest rates concern small-group trips with a biologist on board, on sailboat or RIB. Price alone does not judge the ethical quality of the trip.

Catamaran, sailboat or RIB

The sailboat offers the best acoustic discretion when engines are off. The RIB allows close visual proximity to the water surface, useful for photo-ID. The catamaran suits families with children for stability.

What should be included

A quality trip includes: a biologist or trained naturalist guide for species identification, a hydrophone to listen to cetacean vocalisations, and a contribution to photo-identification databases (submission to Happywhale or local programme). These elements are not systematic; they must be requested explicitly.

Cancellation policy

The sea can be rough on Tenerife’s west coast, especially in winter. A serious operator offers a full refund or reschedule in case of cancellation due to weather. Check this clause before booking, especially for online reservations via third-party platforms.

Seeing whales in the Canaries also means confronting conservation realities that directly concern the populations observed.

IUCN status of present species

The sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus) is listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List (IUCN, 2022). The short-finned pilot whale (Globicephala macrorhynchus) is least concern, but resident island populations are considered distinct and potentially more fragile than pelagic populations. The fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus) is listed as vulnerable (IUCN, 2022), notably due to ship strikes.

Collisions with fast vessels

Maritime traffic between the Canary Islands is dense, with inter-island links served by fast ferries (up to 35 knots). Rorquals at the surface are particularly exposed. Fatal collisions have been documented in this sector. Several NGOs, including Whale and Dolphin Conservation, advocate for adapted navigation corridors and speed reductions in high-density cetacean zones.

Noise pollution and maritime traffic

The strait between Tenerife and La Gomera is crossed by intense commercial and tourist traffic. Underwater noise pollution disrupts cetacean acoustic communication, especially sperm whales whose biosonar clicks carry over several kilometres. Studies within the LIFE IP INTEMARES project identify this factor as a chronic pressure on resident populations.

Contributing to research via photo-ID

Every observer can actively participate in research. Photos of dorsal fins (pilot whales, dolphins) or flukes (sperm whales) can be submitted to the Happywhale platform, which integrates them into photo-identification databases shared with researchers. Some local operators collect these data themselves on board and transmit them to the SECAC programme. Asking whether the operator participates in such a programme is a good indicator of scientific commitment. 🐋